All Things Must Come To Fruition

Our dinner table was the canvas, and the meal was one brushstroke after another that Seidel had painted for us.

And so we begin at the end of the story. It is, or was, one of the best restaurants in Denver, if not all of Colorado. There is no doubt it was unique, creative, and extraordinary. It was the creation of James Beard Award-winning Chef Alex Seidel. And, by the time you read this, Fruition Restaurant in Denver Colorado, will have been closed to the public forever.

Denver, Colorado. One minute hot, the next cold. There’s an old local saying here that goes something like this: “If you don’t like the weather, give it a minute.” I walked briskly through the River North Art District, or RiNo as it is locally known, at night with a sense of awe and amazement. Stepping through this old neighborhood was like stepping into a living, breathing canvas of art, style and creativity. It was a place where the past and the present collided in a riot of color and beautiful imagination. Looking around, I couldn’t tell that the district was once an industrial hub filled with factories and rail yards in the late 1800s. But, in recent years, it has undergone a remarkable and almost revolutionary transformation. I wandered the streets, the vibrant murals that adorned nearly every building told stories of resilience and rebirth, political awareness and anime cuteness, all blending together into a neighborhood art gallery. Every stroke seemed to created a story and vivid testament to the area's artistic renaissance.

The air was crisp and dry, and the glow from street lamps cast long shadows that danced across the murals, making them seem like they followed me on my path through the streets and side alleys. Each piece of art seemed to have its own personality, a reflection of the diverse artists who have made RiNo their home. This district was as much a neighborhood as it was an experience. It was a sensory overload that challenged perceptions and invited introspection from both tourists and locals alike. The murals were creative and colorful paintings, while at the same time remaining bold statements that captured the spirit of a community that had embraced change while forever honoring its gritty roots. I walked along Larimer Street, in the heart of RiNo, struck by the sheer scale and diversity of the artwork that surrounded me. It was a medley of styles, flavors and textures. From hyper-realistic portraits to abstract explosions of color, the murals here were as varied as they were breathtaking. It was no wonder that RiNo was dubbed the "Street Art Capital of the U.S."—a title it wore with pride and vivid color. The district was vast, spanning over 400 acres, which made it one of the largest outdoor galleries in the country to wander through, and get lost in for hours.

The history of RiNo was as rich and as colorful as its murals. In the mid-20th century, as industry declined in the neighborhood and surround areas, the community fell into severe neglect. But from death, life sprouted. What was once seen as a neighborhood in decay became the fertile ground for a new wave of creativity. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, artists began to reclaim these abandoned spaces, slowly transforming them into studios and art galleries. This artistic influx breathed new life into RiNo, setting the stage for its official recognition as an art district in 2005. The transformation of RiNo was about art and about the community that surround it. The district became a hub for creatives from all walks of life. Artists, entrepreneurs, and residents who value collaboration and innovation populated the neighborhood and breathed a new life into the old district.

This sense of community was extremely noticeable as my walk took my through alleys and old neighborhoods, past bustling breweries and cozy coffee shops that offered respite from the chill night air and restored faith in the spirit and the art of passion of the human soul. I walked through these narrow alleys and old streets, and was enamored with how “lived in” every street and building looked. This charming neighborhood, between its growth, its decline and its despair, managed to preserve its industrial heritage while embracing modernity, culture and art, all in the same place. The juxtaposition of old warehouses with contemporary artwork created a unique aesthetic that was both raw and refined. Industrial and yet creative. It was this blend of past and present that gave RiNo its distinctive character. It was a harsh and vivid reminder that beauty could emerge from even the most unexpected places.

Yet, amidst this evolution, there was a certain charm that remained. It was in the way the sunlight caught on a mural's vibrant colors or how a piece of graffiti artfully critiqued the very changes happening around it. It was both jarring and fascinating, and a reminder of how cities constantly reinvent themselves. The street art here is both decoration and dialogue. The colors vibrantly yelling to the resilience of a community that has seen its fair share of change. Artists have turned these walls into canvases that celebrated diversity and challenged convention, and invited everyone to pause, reflect while giving the gift of culture to beautiful city and its legacy neighborhood.

As I walked and mused about the historic downtown, I lost myself in thought and appreciation. My steps carried me forward as I passed through the dry, dense cold of Denver’s winter, towards a warm, creative and inviting dinner reservation. Coming to Fruition for dinner felt like visiting a friend’s home… if your friend just happened to be an amazing chef. The city’s crisp evening air clung to my jacket as I pushed open the door, immediately enveloped by the rich aromas wafting from the kitchen and the dull murmuring noise of a bustling restaurant. The dining room exuded a cozy elegance, an inviting blend of rustic charm and modern sophistication that promised an unforgettable culinary experience. It was the kind of place where the clinking of glasses and soft laughter created a comforting symphony and a magnificent backdrop to the gastronomic artistry that waited for me just around the corner in the busy kitchen. The hostess smiled and showed me to my seat in a gesture that felt like stepping into the warm embrace of family.

I was shown to my seat near the kitchen, towards an already, very crowded table. My friends, all local chefs, had already arrived and had taken the opportunity to make themselves extremely comfortable. There was an instant sense of intimacy with the space. And it wasn’t because we are all crowded into a small dining table in this very old house. Instead, it felt so intimate because we, as chefs, were all participants in the action, listening to the sounds of the kitchen. The Fruition chefs just around the corner orchestrated their craft with precision and passion. It was as if we were all invited to Chef Alex Seidel’s home for dinner and we were all gathered around his kitchen, watching and listening to him prepare the entire meal. Tonight, was a rare privilege that promised an authentic dining experience. We were after all gathered here to experience Fruition for one last time. And while the thought of the dinner was bittersweet, we all knew that we would be in for an evening of smiles, laughter and a medley of aromas and flavors that we would never soon forget.

There is one simple truth that I could tell you about most chefs. Perhaps it’s just my group of close friends. This one fact really might not even be a surprise to you at all. If there is one single constant when we all gather in one place together to eat, to laugh, to exchange stories and to enjoy an evening together as we all blow off a little steam, it is that we all enjoy a little alcohol. It is an expected accompaniment for any meal for us to consume mass quantities of wine. And all of my friends that were seated around this table definitely kept with our tradition this evening. I could see that my arrival was on time, but sadly in “chef's time”, I was already late. I was greeted by smiling faces that I had known for years and a mostly empty bottle of 2018 Antoine Jobard Bourgogne Aligoté. I smiled, noted the bottle and managed a quick remark of “Thank’s for waiting for me!” I was greeted with laughter, raunchy comments about my sexual performance, and a healthy pour of this Bourgogne classic. The Antoine Jobard Bourgogne Aligoté is a well-balanced wine with a pale gold color, delicate aromas and minerality, mouth watering lemon zest flavors and always, always makes for a great aperitif that requires no pairing at all. And with our raised glasses, we toasted to an amazing evening as our preordered dinner began.

As we were a fairly large group, we decided to order almost everything off the menu to share. We also, kept the wine list at the table to select a good bottle to pair with each selection. As this was the final curtain call at Fruition, we knew that it would be a bittersweet journey for all of us. A walk through flavors, aromas, and memories, all to be orchestrated by the maestro himself just around the corner, Chef Alex Seidel. I sat here, surrounded by my fellow chefs, as we all polished off the first bottle, feeling a sense of anticipation, sadness and reverence for the culinary journey we were about to experience. This meal was a farewell tour, a last hurrah for a restaurant that was truly a Denver institution. And we were all here to celebrate together.

Fried Maitake Slider with hot honey and bread & butter pickles

As I was expecting from this group of misfits and rebels, the tasting menu this evening began with a bang as an order of Fried Maitake Sliders was placed on the table. We all barely had time to even admire the dish as our sommelier popped a bottle of 2020 Bois d'Yver Chardonnay from Chablis and expertly poured each of us a generous glass. The aroma of the slider only made me realize just how hungry I was as I scooped my portion, just as we all raised a glass to toast to our first bite. Dear reader, picture if you will, this dish—there, resting between two slices of bread was a golden-brown, crispy exterior giving way to a meaty, umami-rich flesh of the maitake mushroom. The hot honey was drizzled over the top which added a sweet heat that danced on our tongues, while the bread and butter pickles cut through with the flavors a tangy crunch. It was, the most perfect balance of textures and flavors which brought back warm thoughts of late night meals shared between friends as we all devoured each slider hungrily, preemptively working to absorb what ever alcohol we drank that night. This elegant and simple starter was a testament to Seidel's ability to elevate the most simple of ingredients, and make them extraordinary. This juicy, fungal delight paired perfectly with the Bois d'Yver Chardonnay. With each sip, we all marveled at how the wine's crisp acidity and mineral notes were the perfect foil for the richness of the slider. The Chardonnay cleansed our palates with every sip, and prepared us for the next bite as it coated our tongues in buttery goodness. As we polished off our appetizer, we all easily agreed that Seidel's creativity showed that he perfectly understood the nostalgia, the warmth and the fuzzy memories that good comfort food can invoke. Alex took a memory that we have all experienced at one time in our lives, that 2am visit to White Castle after a night of drunken mistakes, and elevated to an art form of comfort and culinary nostalgia.

Grilled and Chilled Yellowtail with yuzu and kumquat

We sat in that cozy and crowded dining room, continuing to laugh, joke and work our way through our second bottle. And just as the our next dish was being carried out of the kitchen, we polished off the last drops of the Bois d'Yver Chardonnay, as our sommelier ran to get the next bottle for our pairing. Our servers placed the Grilled and Chilled Yellowtail in the center of our table for us to share. This dish was an excellent example that showcased Seidel's mastery of seafood on the menu. If prepared incorrectly, which in many restaurants, it is very easy to do, a chef can absolutely screw up the execution of yellowtail, or any fish for that matter. In this situation, the yellowtail was quite literally kissed by the grill and then was instantly chilled. It had a texture that was at once both firm and delicate. Seidel used the yuzu and kumquat to add bright, citrusy notes that sliced through the richness of the fish like a samurai sword through rice paper. It was a flavor that instantly grabbed you by the collar and dragged you to the coast. There was a feeling of salty, supple flesh with flavors so clean and pure that you could almost smell the briny waves crashing around you as you bit into each piece.

Our sommelier suggested the 2022 Marc Colin Santenay Blanc to accompany the yellowtail for this course as we were perusing the wine list, and clearly needed some assistance in selecting a decent pairing. And his suggestion was not surprisingly a stroke of genius. I had never had a white Burgundy before. I distinctly remember even raising an eyebrow to his suggestion. However, I will admit that I was wrong, and he was most definitely right. This gorgeous wine, with its notes of green apple and white flowers, complemented the citrus in the dish with ease. Its underlying minerality married the brininess of the fish in perfect and complete harmony. I was reminded of a saying that I had heard around a wine tasting table before from a very wise sommelier. She said, “Wine just makes your food taste better.” Experiencing this pairing and remembering her statement, who was I to argue with complete and utter perfection.

I scanned the table as I slowly sipped my wine, watching my fellow chefs nod in happiness, appreciation and enjoyment. You could immediately tell with a dish like this how much love and time had been put into its creation. Long hours of experimentation. Tasting the combinations over and over and over again until it was absolutely flawless. The countless iterations that must have gone into crafting the perfect balance of salty and savory. And after the alchemy was done, finding its perfect vinous partner. This was Seidel at his best. He was a chef who understood that great food was about more than just flavor. It was about creating an experience, a moment in time that lingered on the tongue and in the memory long after the plates have been cleared, washed and the lights of the kitchen had been turned off.

Roasted Half Chicken with bacon braised cannellini beans and swiss chard

Chicken is one of the few dishes that some chefs could screw up in the best of cooking conditions. And in some cases, some chefs have to work very diligently to completely fuck it up. Cooking chicken the “right” way however, is not a talent, but a careful and meticulous study in temperature, textures and flavors that could transform a normally bland meat, into something eye-opening, metaphysical, and utterly life-changing. The roasted half chicken that was the next course could have only been described as a masterclass in comfort food that was just done right. The chicken, its skin crispy and golden, gave way to meat so juicy it practically bordered on the obscene. The bacon-braised cannellini beans only elevated the dish to a state of near debauchery, because, you can never go wrong with bacon. Bacon in fact is universe’s answer to nearly everything. “Excuse me chef, this tastes like it needs something. I don’t know what, just something.” The answer? Bacon. Not only was the chicken so juicy that it practically gushed when you poked it, but the cannellini beans were creamy, smoky, and infused with the essence of the roasted, succulent bird that they accompanied.

As with anything that had a caramelized sweetness to it, a good chef needed something to give it that ever-so slight, small hint of brilliance. That tiny dash of tartness to balance out the dish. The swiss chard stepped in perfectly and added a welcome bitterness, cutting through the richness while it added that pop of color to the plate that brought the whole dish together seamlessly. While our entire table was busy ripping apart and diving into this pile of poultry perfection, our sommelier paired and poured all of us a 2020 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir from Santa Rita Hills, California. This wine was not your ordinary California Pinot. Instead of a light and airy tartness of strawberries, the Kosta Browne Pinot was rich, thick and tight. Every sip created notes of ripe cherry and earthy undertones that was paired beautifully with the roasted chicken. The Pinot also displayed subtle and silky tannins, and a bright acidity that cut through the rich chicken fat. Its fruit-forward profile paired and complemented the smoky notes of the bacon. Remember what I said earlier. Bacon truly does go with everything.

There is something so soothing about comfort food. It’s a feeling that just stirs memories of warmth, softness and familiarity. We all felt it. Sitting around this table, tearing apart this dish. Laughing. Smiling. Joking. Bringing up memories that have not been discussed in years. This pairing, while new, was a pairing that felt like coming home after a long journey. It was familiar. It was reassuring. Yet somehow, it was also new and exciting. Every bite was a reflection on Seidel's journey. From opening Fruition, to earning his James Beard nomination, Seidel had always stayed true to his philosophy of showcasing local ingredients in new, different and extremely inventive ways. This chicken dish, that was now practically licked clean by six grown adults, all sitting around and finger-battling for the last bit of sauce. This scrumptious entree, was seemingly simple, yet it was executed with such targeted precision. This was a testament to Alex’s philosophy, and a reminder that in the hands of a skilled chef, even the most humble ingredients could be transformed into something extraordinary.

Pork Tenderloin ‘Milanese’ with kohlrabi and smoked trout roe gribiche

Being an expert in everything poultry related in the kitchen was one thing. Being an expert in preparing other meats, was an entirely different set of skills all together. Far too often, I have seen chefs, really great chefs, experienced chefs, chefs who have survived schooling, made it though the heat of a busy kitchen and the trial an error of experimental cooking, excel in the creation of one meat. And somehow, with the success of creation of something that is nearly perfect, fall completely flat on their face with the preparation of something entirely different. It was therefore always interesting, deeply intriguing to see how a chef will tackle meats that are more challenging, more dense, less juicy. A master of one meat, did not automatically give you a path of expertise in cooking anything else. With this dish, however, Seidel showed that he was not only the master of sea and land, but a master of farm and forrest as well.

The Pork Tenderloin 'Milanese' that followed showed Seidel flexing his culinary muscles. The pork, pounded thin and breaded, was fried to crisp, golden perfection. The accompaniments elevated the dish and brought out flavors and textures that added complexity and vibrance. The kohlrabi was crisp and slightly sweet, provided a refreshing counterpoint to the richness of the pork. And then, as if Seidel wanted to tease us with just a bit of extra salty, sea goodness, there was the addition of the smoked trout roe gribiche. It was a stroke of genius that added pops of briny flavor and a luxurious mouthfeel to each and every bite. Aside from the low murmur of the restaurant around us, I was surprised that our table suddenly fell completely silent as we were extremely busy tasting, chewing and enjoying. As I panned around the table, I was instantly greeted with the same expression of blissful contentment on the faces of all my fellow chefs.

To pair with this pork porn of porcine promiscuity, our sommelier poured all of us one of my favorite bottles from the entire evening. The 2016 Saxum Grenache Blend, 'The Hexe', from Paso Robles was a bold choice for this dish, but one that paid off in spades. As we all raised our glasses to take a generous, long and healthy sip, none of us could even utter one word as we were too busy indulging in vinicultural promiscuity. This bottle of Saxum was a literal punch to face from a winemaker who knew what the fuck he was doing. Its intense fruit flavors and hints of herbs and spice stood up beautifully to the complex flavors of the dish. Its full body and smooth tannins had no reason to apologize from their intensity and complemented the crispy texture of the pork with utter decadence. While its underlying acidity was noticeable, that sliver of cassis cut through the richness of the dish like a newly sharpened GoldVein No.2 chef’s knife. It was a pairing that was in a word, simply sublime. I watched in perpetual pleasure as my fellow chefs all could do nothing else except sit back in their respective chairs, close their eyes, and just let the flavors wash over them in waves of culinary bliss.

For those that are unfamiliar with Paso Robles’ best kept secret, Saxum Winery is one of those tiny, fly-below-the-radar wineries that also happens to produce hundred point bottles year, after year, after year. It is one of those small wineries in Paso Robles that simply just makes great wine. While Saxum has a presence and several vineyards in Paso Robles, they do not have a tasting room. They do not offer sampling of any kind. Want a bottle? Get in line. The waiting list to purchase as many as three bottles every quarter is about six years in length. Becoming a wine club member is test of patience and luck of the draw. “How can this winery be THAT special” you ask? Saxum is considered special because it produces those highly acclaimed, hundred-point full-bodied Rhône-style blends from a small vineyard in Paso Robles. This winery is particularly known for their Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre wines. They have, year after year, crafted stellar wines with minimal intervention and a focus on the unique terroir of their steep, rocky hillside vineyards, all of which contribute distinctive character to the wines that they produce. Even the name "Saxum" itself means "stone" in Latin, reflecting this key element of their unique and special terroir. I can say without any doubt, that every chef that was sitting at the table knew Saxum very well, knew how difficult it was to get on the winey’s approved list, and knew how special this bottle of 2016 Saxum 'The Hexe' truly was.

Colorado Bison Meatloaf with Bloomsdale spinach and sunny-side up egg and Beef Tallow Potatoes with Gruyère and Parmesan

As we shared each course, each wine pairing, and each new tasting experience, we all had a moment to pause, to talk, to laugh, to take note, and to reflect on the journey’s that we have all taken in our lifetimes. We all brought our life experiences to this table, to celebrate the ingenuity and the creativity of Chef Alex Seidel. And without disappointment, each dish managed to knock our fucking collective socks off. I was, as it happened that evening destined to be the table’s so-called “asshole”. The bearer and reminder that no matter how delicious the journey is, every journey, including this one must come to a final and complete conclusion. As I looked to my left, I noticed that our server was bringing our final course, and our sommelier was bringing our final bottle for the evening.

It should be said then that the final and immensely savory course of the evening was a true showstopper. This final act brought our dinner of indulgence and debauchery to an incredible and satisfying end. The Colorado Bison Meatloaf with Bloomsdale spinach and a sunny-side up egg were placed and centered on the table for us to stare and marvel for the moment. However, all of our attention was instantly pulled to the plating that accompanied the meatballs which were identified by the rich and deeply luscious Beef Tallow Potatoes with Gruyère and Parmesan. The meatloaf, not surprisingly, was luscious and flavorful. The egg on top, with its runny yolk, added that extra layer of shameful gratification to an already deeply decadent dish. And holy fuck, those potatoes. If you, dear reader would ever crack open a door to a darkened room where sounds of chewing could be heard emanating from a far corner, as the light cracked across my bent over form, you would find me shamefully hunched in a corner, bowl in hand, continuously scarfing down these golden hued spheres of addiction with utter and complete madness. Crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside, and infused with the nutty flavors of Gruyère and Parmesan, these potatoes were the work of a culinary master turned madman who stuffed these starchy balls of joy with dreams.

As if the potatoes weren’t enough to complete the circle of utter depravity, our sommelier poured each of us a generous glass of the 2017 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon, 'Hillside Select', from Napa Valley, California. This wine blasted our senses with its intense black fruit flavors, notes of tobacco and deep dark chocolate. Its firm tannins literally slapped us all in the face as it expertly cut through the richness of the meatloaf and potatoes like a hot knife through butter. Its complexity matched the depth of flavors and textures that we were completely overcome with. It was an ending that showcased the food and wine pairing, and also put all of Seidel's creativity and alchemy on full display creating a memory of an experience that would forever be locked in our heads no matter where our culinary adventures dragged us to next.

There was something special that happened when you brought six close friends together for a unique meal in an extraordinary place. There was something that was even more notable that occured when those six friends just happen to be master chefs and experts in their respective domains. Each of them have all been through their own fair share of adventures. Eendeavors that have both good and bad, long and short, successful and not. In cities, both near and far, in kitchens both familiar and unfamiliar. In gathering here, in Denver, Colorado. In coming here to Fruition, on the last day of this extraordinary restaurant’s existence, we all came here in support of one man’s journey. To truly celebrate the creativity, love and ingenuity of Chef Alex Seidel.

We sat around and lingered over the last bites of meatloaf and sips of Cabernet. And just as the conversation turned to Seidel's legacy, the man himself popped out of the kitchen, apron still tied around his torso, and joined us for a glass of the Shafer that we had set aside just for him. He slid into his chair as we all made room for him at the table, as we all tucking in close together. Friends. Comrades. Chefs. Fruition had been more than just a restaurant. This unique place, opened nearly eighteen years ago, had been a training ground for countless chefs who graced its kitchen. It was a place where creativity was nurtured and passion was rewarded. Chef Alex Seidel had created great food, an award winning menu, and an even more amazing community. It was a family of sorts. Culinary masters and apprentices who bound together by a shared love of cuisine and a commitment to excellence. It was a place where each plate told a story. A story of a chef who had never stopped pushing boundaries. Who had never stopped learning. And who had never stopped striving for perfection.

Our dinner table was the canvas, and the meal was one brushstroke after another that Seidel had painted for us. In the world of food, just as in life, sadly, all good things must eventually come to an end. But as all things in life, as one chapter closes, so does another chapter begin. And, while this was the absolute final meal at Fruition, it was by no means the end of the story. As we all sat around laughing, chatting and just shooting the shit as friends and colleagues do in the evening after a meal and many bottles of wine that could only be described as fucking sublime, there was one thing that was certain between all of us. One thing that collectively, we all knew would be true, even without saying it out loud. The next chapter in the culinary story for Chef Seidel was going to be one fucking hell of a read. And we were all looking forward to devouring it with ravenous anticipation.