Christmas In Rome... Buon Natale!
The sites, smells, tastes and sounds of this pulsing ancient city all come together to create an experience that is as unique as its people.
Rome, the Eternal City, with a history spanning more than two thousand years, takes on an entirely unique flavor during the holiday season. On Christmas Day especially, this ancient, magical place is a spectacle to behold and unlike any other city in all of Europe to experience. Rome’s winding streets, usually swarming with tourists, take on a serene and almost ancient quality as the holiday season transforms the winding passage ways into a magical labyrinth of ancient structures and modern day decor. The city's grandeur, often masked by the hustle and congestion of everyday life was visible now and on full display for all to enjoy its unique beauty. The crisp winter air gave the city a fresh and clean palate carrying scents across piazzas luring patrons over to local street vendor stands to sample and purchase roasting chestnuts, cookies, cured meats and other tasty holiday morsels. One didn’t just experience the city but rather tasted it, savored it by walking the nearly empty streets discovering new sites, sounds and flavors of this stone metropolis. The sound of church bells ringing across the city announced the day's holy significance and added an ambience to the sacred celebration. Cathedrals could be heard ringing their ancient bells from every block from one end of the city to the other. Street conversations between locals and visitors were always punctuated with a hearty “Ti auguro Buon Natale” always spoken to passers-by in greeting adding a flair of holiday festivities for the normal daily greetings.
I marveled at the Colosseum which stood like a sentinel at the heart of the city, a daily reminder of the city's timeless structures, standing silently as they witnessed history swirling around them. Majestically lit under the soft winter sun, it was a monument that bore the weight of history with grace and solidarity. I stopped for a moment in my stroll around the city, my breath visible in the cold air and just starred at its gargantuan stone majesty trying to imagine the roar of the crowd, the patrons that came to watch the matches and the gladiators who once fought here entertaining the rowdy crowds through blood-soaked brawls. A group of children ran past me, their laughter echoing off the ancient stones, an act completely benign and opposite from the blood thirsty screaming in the games that entertained the throngs of jeering people. Even on Christmas Day, life in the city doesn't stop, it merely slows down allowing you to appreciate its beauty in a different light.
The Trevi Fountain, usually a hotspot for tourists tossing coins, taking pictures, making wishes and sometimes carelessly falling into the fountain was quiet today. Tourists seemed to have received an unwritten message to leave everything alone for this one special day. It was as if the city was pausing and holding its breath, allowing the true spirit of Christmas to seep into its cobblestone streets, ancient structures and into its old narrow alleyways. The clear, burbling water of the fountain reflected the pastel-colored buildings surrounding it creating a painting-like tableau that screamed “paint me” with no one present to listen.
I wandered through the cobblestone streets towards the Pantheon, the smells of Rome on Christmas Day assaulted my senses from nearly every direction. From every corner and alleyway the aroma of roasting lamb, baked bread and the sweet, intoxicating scent of panettone and pandoro seemed to ooze from the cracks in the buildings. It was a symphony of culinary delights that took me back to my first visit to Rome, back to when I was just another wide-eyed tourist experiencing this mesmerizing art inspired labyrinth awed by everything this city had to offer.
Trattorias and cafes, usually bursting with patrons had a more familial atmosphere today as locals filled the seats and bars all enjoying the holiday season together. The owners and proprietors who would normally be too busy to chat offering instead glances of acknowledgement to patrons were more than willing to share stories of past Christmases while pouring generous glasses of Chianti and Montepulciano. The language barrier seemed to dissolve under the shared joy of Christmas Day. I took full advantage of the immense generosity offered by a local barkeep. I pushed into the bar joining everyone celebrating the holiday, especially taking part in the free flowing spirits by pushing my wine glass to the counter time and time again. I played the part of the American Tourist in Rome splendidly that evening, sipping my wine, chatting, smiling and laughing while enjoying the company of locals and tourists alike from all over the world. Mingling with people from all walks of life deep in the heart of Rome I was reminded of the reason why I fell in love with this city in the first place. It’s the amazing connection that I discovered here. A connection to Rome, to its people, to its culture and to its food. It's a bond that can never be broken and is shared and loved by so many people from literally everywhere.
Walking the streets on Christmas Day is like rediscovering this city of the first time again and again. I entered Piazza Navona and was immediately shocked and pleasantly surprised all at once. The famous piazza, normally packed with street artists and tourists was transformed into a Christmas wonderland for the holiday season. The Baroque architecture of the square provided the perfect backdrop for the seasonal Christmas market. I strolled through the market, taking my time to savor every corner of its charm and uniqueness. Walking through the famous piazza was like breathing in Christmas. The air was filled with the sweet smell of candied nuts and mulled wine all coming together to create an air of the perfect festive joy. Children ran around the grandiose piazza with gelato in one hand and a toy from a market stall in the other, their faces lit up with joy from devouring their treats and reveling in holiday season itself.
The afternoon gently slid into the evening and the sun set behind St. Peter's Basilica painting the streets in a golden shimmery color. I slowly made my way to the Tiber River in the dusk, enjoying a gradual lull in the energy of the city as night slowly creeped in. Christmas lights had been strung along the bridges and reflected on the water creating a magical atmosphere that you couldn’t experience anywhere else. The city's many layers of history, culture and cuisine merged with the holiday spirit to create something entirely unique and special. This was Rome that only existed in this time and in this universe for this one special day of the year for all of those who were present to experience its wonder and whimsical splendor.
Christmas in Rome is a feast for all the senses. The sites, smells, tastes and sounds of this pulsing ancient city all come together to create an experience that is as unique as its people. It is a celebration of life and history that transcends religion or belief and it is shared by everyone who has the chance to experience it. This holy holiday is a reminder of the city's ability to adapt and evolve while maintaining its connection to the past and building hope for the future. I wandered back to my hotel slowly, enjoying the journey back to my room as much as the day of discovery. Echoes of Italian Christmas carols filled the air and echoed between the ancient stone buildings providing a simple yet beautiful end to a perfect day. And even though I've walked these streets many times before experiencing the city for all of its wonder, today I felt entirely different than all of my previous visits. Today these streets were imbued with the magic and wonder of Christmas in the Eternal City.